Caviar and Champagne

It's funny how "we" (people) are so easily influenced by others' perceptions and buy into preconceived notions.  It's pretty easy to figure out; someone you know and trust tells you something, you tend to believe it.  There's probably no area of our lives that is more permeated by this phenomenon than the world of food. I'm getting ready to tell you what I think you should do but I insist that you act on what YOU think.

Kids are practically instructed not to like vegetables. You see it in the oh-so-clever and witty marketing on commercials, even sit-coms discuss how much kids should and consequently do hate vegetables.  Then, the adults often follow suit by simply not even bothering to serve the children vegetables, because they aren't going to like them anyway, so why even try, right?

This brings me to my thoughts today of champagne and caviar.  I'd be willing to bet that if Jay Leno and I went out on the street together and quizzed people (you know, those really bright ones that he finds roaming the streets of L.A.), that we'd find over 70% of them believe that champagne is super expensive and only rich people ever get to drink it or even have the palate for it.  This same group would also acknowledge that they've never tried caviar for all the same reasons as champagne, but then they'd go further to wrinkle up their faces, stick out their tongues and vehemently assert that they wouldn't even try it anyway, because it's (GASP!) fish eggs!  They'd demonstrate loathing and disgust with as much drama as a vegetable-hatin' 5 year old!


When I was 12, I was in the Columbia City Ballet.  I was a soldier.  It was a small part, but it was a part and I got to have specially ordered white pointe shoes.  And, I got to fight the Rat King, who would later be named the President of my alma mater.  One night the company had a "gala" fundraising party and I was invited, as a member of the "company."  My dad was my date.  I got to wear a silk dress, fancy hairdo and high heels.  It was very grown up, very sophisticated and very glam.  And, they had caviar...


It was the classic presentation: black caviar arranged on top of cream cheese, accompanied by chopped hard boiled egg, capers, chopped red onion.  It was absolutely beautiful.  When I realized what it was, I wanted to try it so bad, but you know, surely I wasn't worthy because caviar is so expensive and only rich people like it and I was just a kid.  But my perfect date encouraged me to give it a try.  I've been hooked ever since.  When I later learned that you can buy caviar at the grocery store, I couldn't believe that everyone hadn't tried this stuff.  Granted, it's not Beluga, but it's what we have readily available and it's affordable.  Really affordable.


Next, champagne.  Same deal, really.  Growing up, we were allowed to have an occasional sip at a special occasion, but once we were old enough, we had it whenever there was a holiday, a birthday, etc.  Once again, mom and dad enlightened us to the fact that champage is readily available and affordable.  Just like anything, there are different varieties, vintages and price points.  But, it doesn't have to be reserved for special occasions.  It just doesn't.  In fact, about 10 years ago, I got a phone call on a regular day, maybe a Tuesday.  My mom called to announce that she and my dad had decided that they had reached a point in their lives that they could and would, from now on, drink champagne whenever they wanted.  They needed no reason, no special occasion, and that's the end of that.


I love that my parents opened up this way of thinking to me and my sister.  I have spread our wacky ways to my husband and most of my friends.  Life is short.  Give your kids artichokes and asparagus.  Buy some champagne or cava (Paul Cheneau is a nice reasonable one).  Stop at the grocery store and get some cream cheese and caviar and contemplate any other crazy foods that you've been told you aren't supposed to like.  Then buy those too!

Crab Puffs Cont'd: Got the Recipe!

If you read my post about crab puffs, you will recall that I promised you the recipe once I got it from my sister.  See below.  And, may the Puff be with you!

• 6 oz crab meat, picked, cleaned & flaked 
• 1/2 c. shredded sharp cheddar
• 3 green onions, chopped
• 1 tsp. dry mustard
• 1 tsp. Worchestershire sauce
• 1 c. water
• 1/2 c. butter
• 1 c. all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 4 eggs

Combine the first 5 ingredients, stirring well.  Set aside.

Combine water, butter and salt in a medium saucepan.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to low, add flour and stir vigorously until mixture leaves the side of the pan and forms a smooth ball.  Remove saucepan from heat and allow mixture to cool slightly.

Add eggs, one at a time, beating with a wooden spoon after each addition, until batter is smooth.  Add crab and stir well.  Drop by heaping teaspoonfuls onto ungreased baking sheets.  

Bake at 400 for 15 minutes, reduce heat to 350 and bake an additional 10 minutes.  Serve warm.  Makes about 4 1/2 dozen.

**To freeze before baking, cover baking sheets with foil before dropping batter.   Place batter on sheets then freeze until hard. Remove from sheets and store in an airtight container in freezer.  To serve, remove from freezer and bake unthawed at 375 for 35 minutes.

**To freeze after baking, place puffs in airtight container in freezer.  Let thaw completely and bake at 350 for 8-10 minutes.

Carciofi fritti

Was it the late 80's or the 90's when frying food became taboo?  Whenever it was, it was pretty hard for us Southerners to swallow because some of our best known specialties take a hot oil bath.  But, then, it became a dirty little secret and we had to adapt to "oven fried" this or that, sauteing, baking and broiling.  Don't misunderstand me; we Southerners are damn smart cookies...we already knew how to do all those things.  But frankly, trying to fry chicken in an oven simply isn't fried chicken.  It's crumbed, baked chicken.  Call a spade a spade, right?

It became so forbidden that none of us did it anymore.  I have a "Fry Daddy" that I inherited from my mom's house that has been sitting on a top shelf in my laundry room for about 15 years.  Even, once in a blue moon, if I broke down and fried some shrimp or squash, or whatever, I sure as hell wouldn't admit it!  But here's the rub.  In all my years of reading cookbooks, watching Food Network, talking to chefs, what I couldn't get out of my head was what they all say:  use good oil, use the right temperature, use the right vessel and use the right technique and you can have crispy, golden, non-greasy food.  But still there was the stigma.

Well this year, I said "Enough!"  I'm from South Carolina and if I want to fry something, I'm gonna do it dammit!  So, I asked my sister to get me a fryer for Christmas.  But I was specific: it had to be a good one.  No small potatoes, low performance Fry Daddy, but one with a temp control, basket and lid.  I know it was hard on her, probably as bad as pulling a tooth, but little sister came through and granted my wish!  Thank you Katherine and Cuisinart!

So, today my beautiful God-child Sarah came by.  You should see this kid...smart, polite, pleasant and just gorgeous.  I love me some Sarah!  We started talking about food.  I was kind of quizzing her about her favorites and she brought up having artichokes at her friend Pearl's house.  The idea hit me right there.  I was going to christen my new fryer with artichokes.  I'm delighted to say that my experiment was a resounding success, in my opinion!  I'm going to post what I did, exactly as I did it.  Please feel free to adapt/modify/change as your taste and creativity dictates.

Artichokes
1 can quartered artichoke hearts,  well-drained
2 cups bread flour
3/4 cup "Egg Beaters" (Feggs, as my beloved calls them....Fake+Eggs=Feggs)
1 cup plain bread crumbs
1 cup seasoned bread crumbs
salt


Remoulade
3/4 cup mayo
1/4 cup Creole mustard
2 tsp chopped capers
1/2 tsp cayenne
1/2 tsp HOT Hungarian paprika
2 tsp lemon juice


Mix all remoulade ingredients together in a bowl and refrigerate to blend flavors.

Heat peanut oil to 375.  Meanwhile, dredge artichokes in flour, then eggs, then crumbs.  Place in fryer basket.  Don't overcrowd!

Lower artichokes into the fryer and cook until golden.  Drain in basket then on paper towels as they cool.  Salt lightly.  Then, get a little dipping bowl of remoulade and hit it!

The Famous Crab Puff

As a child, I remember hearing adults talk about crab puffs.  I heard it at wedding receptions, on TV shows, etc. but I'd never actually seen a crab puff.  It seemed to be the quintessential 70's hors d'oeuvre and I loved the idea of a crab puff.  Frankly, the concept of any type of 'puff' sounds appealing to me.  So, you can understand my bewilderment at how such a seemingly popular and oft-talked-about little morsel could be so elusive.  

As an adult, I have attended many (yeah, many!) cocktail parties, grand openings, weddings, receptions.  And, I've given my share of good parties too.  But, never have I come across a crab puff nor have I ever found a recipe for them.  Well, that's not completely true...I will admit that I have actually seen recipes that called themselves 'crab puffs' but what I read wasn't remotely like the crab puff in my mind.  It's supposed to be crabby, light, puffy and extremely sophisticated.  

So, along comes Christmas 2010.  My sister Katherine and her husband arrived from Asheville and K had brought some hors d'oeuvres.  Lo and behold!  The girl made crab puffs.  I was so excited that I think I frightened her a little with my reaction.  What?  Crab Puffs?  There is a God after all!  Ya-freaking-hoo!  You know, I was enthused.  


These were the crab puffs that my memory has carried around all these years.  I had flashbacks of the wedding reception at our house for a couple of hippies; my job was 'Canape Girl.'  My mom worked with me on pronunciation for a couple weeks, I practiced my tray handling skills and 'worked the room' with my wee voice, "Canapes, canapes." It could have only been made more perfect if my tray had included Katherine's crab puffs.  I mean, Mary Tyler Moore and James Bond would have been all over these babies!  


They were puffy and light.  They had plenty of that luscious blue crab meat that wasn't overpowered by any other ingredients.  The cheddar was there but not too overbearing.  Just perfect.  I can't wait to make them and keep a stash in my freezer.


Just one problem...I forgot to get the recipe from her.  So, as soon as I get it, I'll gladly share it. Now, here's your homework...if you have a crab puff that you like or that someone in your family makes, I'd love to hear about it.  I'm now devoted to serving crab puffs every chance I get.  And martinis.  Maybe rumaki.  Oh, beautiful 1970's!

The Great Mixed Nut Deception

In America, we have certain ideals that make us who we are.  We believe in freedom of speech, the golden rule, truth in advertising.  At least that's the idea.

Here's the nut industry's little white lie.  Those cans that say "Less than 50% peanuts" are a sham.  Ok, it's true that 49.9999% is less than 50%.  But it's an insult to our intelligence.  It's a crime to defraud the nut lovers of the world in such a sleezy way, using a mere technicality.  Just decreasing peanuts by a "smidge" doesn't cut it!  We want mixed nuts dammit!  And, when we pay sometimes astronomical prices for them, it's because we're craving some really good mixed nuts!  If we wanted a big can of peanuts, we would have bought the one that says "Peanuts" on it.  You see?  See how this works, nut makin' people?  If I could grow my own cashews, I'd do it in a heartbeat.  But, I can't, so I have to look to you people to supply.  Jerks.  

I'm hungry.

Christmas Eve Plans

Every year, I start imagining all the Thanksgiving/Christmas get-togethers and what kind of menu we should have, what look, what time to eat, etc.  I sometimes have a theme, sometimes it's an elegant candlelit affair, occasionally I envision a Norman Rockwell painting.  The thing is, no matter what ideas or scenarios that I come up with, it usually plays out like our holidays have played out my whole life.  And, that's ok.

We have never been the night-time, dress up in velvet, candlelit formal holiday dinner types.  I see the articles in Food & Wine and Bon Appetit with all the shimmery decorations, formal china and crystal, fancy dresses and coats and ties and it looks great.  I love an elegant event as much as, maybe even more than most people.  But, holidays in the Webber-Wilson-Akre-Ballard clan have always been pretty casual, homey, pot-lucky and what I consider to be "normal."  We make a plan: who's making a turkey, who's  bringing ham,  how about Uncle John's smoked corned beef this time?  Aunt Jennie is always asked to make her dressing & sweet potatoes.  I've probably told y'all before that without her sweet potatoes for at least one of the holiday dinners, the Earth will fall off its axis.  My sister and I are usually the ones who will throw in a new experiment or some hors d'oeuvres.  We all pitch in, plan on eating a mid to late lunch, drink wine.  You know.


So, Christmas is upon us and I'm thinking about Christmas Eve in particular.  At Thanksgiving, I said to my Dad, "What about doing a beef tenderloin on Christmas Eve after church and having the traditional stuff for lunch on Christmas Day?"  We both agreed this would be a great plan.  I think I suggest the tenderloin every year; it usually happens about every 7 years.  What usually ends up happening is what will happen this year too.  We all gravitate back to "pick up food."  Not take-out, but hors d'oeuvres, snacks, casual dishes like gumbo, antipasto.  Sounds great to me: I could live off finger food.  Remember how Rachel served her kids their meals in Mermaids? 

 I want to throw in a cheese fondue this year.  Vivian hasn't experienced fondue and at 4 1/2 years old, I think she'll really think it's cool.  And, I want to do the real thing: the emmenthaler, kirsch, garlic, good bread...the whole nine yards.  We have tons of crab in the freezer, so I think crab cakes go without saying.  I'm looking at some other recipes like roast beef & horseradish crostini for example.  That's as far as I've gotten so far.  I'm sure Mom has some great ideas floating around in her head as well.

Ok, that does it...I want fondue NOW!

So, as is pretty typical for us, we'll have a yummy, casual Christmas Eve grazing.  Katherine is bringing a ham, we'll make Aunt Jennie's sweet potatoes, maybe a broccoli casserole, so Christmas Day will be pretty traditional. OUR Traditional anyway.  And that's ok!